July 17
Left the campground early (I wore my rainpants while we were packing up to avoid more bites!) – a couple bars for an early breakfast and then the real thing 11 miles later in Lincoln (long-time home of the Unabomber and where he was finally arrested). No other bikers but a few hikers chowing, chatting, and charging at the same restaurant. Lincoln is also the site of a wonderful outdoor sculpture park which we meandered around for quite awhile. I will include lots of pictures on the Photos page!
After we left Lincoln, we kept along MT200 up Rogers Pass and then at the point we would have been going downhill for miles on fast pavement (but limited shoulder), we offroaded to get to our destination for the night (7R Guest Ranch). We started by walking our bikes up a steep gravel “road” which later became a rocky road, nearly impassable; we ended up walking up and down steep sections because it was so bad and our arms (and brakes) were strained. Crossed a creek a few times and were making such slow progress that we started getting a little worried. Oh, and Craig got a slow leak in his back tire. Eventually an ATV approached us and offered us a ride but also told us the road would get better so we kept going, ego in tact, and managed to get to our destination by 3.
July 16
Started the day on a gravel then single-track trail past the UM campus then back to the grind on Highway 200 East. No fire danger and not much smoke, so fairly fast despite climbing 2644 ft. We were relieved to find a campsite at Moose Creek Campground. We’d been unable to reserve there and so we weren’t sure what to expect, but we found a site no problem, semi-bathed in the creek, ate leftover Biga pizza, hung what food we had left, and then climbed in our tent early to avoid more mosquito bites and listen to a podcast (Your Own Backyard – recommended by Heather and Chris :). Since they killed and ID’d the grizzly that had killed a camping bicyclist in Ovando, which we had just ridden through, we slept well!
July 15
Sad to leave the hot springs behind, but got an early start (7 AM) and skirted past the one area where fire and smoke were a concern with a great tailwind. After 30+ miles at the junction of Highway 200 East and 93 South we stopped at a funky place called The Bison Cafe. A little dingy looking from the outside, but one family already there and we were pleased to meet George, who was running the whole show by himself. Great coffee, huckleberry pancakes, eggs, hashbrowns, and the works (lots of meat for Craig). We finished it all! We lost our tailwind for awhile and slogged up a long 3% hill with a headwind, but then had some fast sections all the way to Missoula and ended up averaging 13.4 mph, maybe the fastest we’ve done (carrying around 30 lb a gear each). 71 miles in total.
We checked into the Missoula Campus Inn. Nothing special, but then Craig’s artist friend, John Thompson, graciously picked us up and showed us his working studio, the carousel he helped make happen (individual mounts carved by a consortium of local artists), and his beautiful house and home studio. He is a prolific artist and a consummate host!
John dropped us at Biga Pizza downtown where we gorged on the best house salad and pizza we may have ever had. Wish we had one of those close to home! Young waitress had done the whole PCT in 2016 :).
Camping tomorrow night if all goes according to plan. Hotels are not an option – didn’t realize Ovando and Lincoln are both on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Likely won’t have any cell signal for the night if not all day. The next night we are in Wolf Creek and may not have signal there either. So signing off for a few days potentially…
July 14
Lovely “zero day” at the hot springs, newly remodeled. Slept nine hours, had a late breakfast, lounged at the hot springs most of the day. There are 6 pools that range from 62 degrees (cold water plunge) to 106 degrees. Not very crowded as they currently only allow overnight guests to use the pools.
July 13
Oof! Early start of 8 gradual miles up a gravel road to Lookout Pass. Watched the hoards of mountain bikers getting ready to ride at the ski resort and talked to a young woman camping in her Subaru who had her (doubly locked) mountain bike stolen in Portland and was so sad not a single bike was available to rent for the ski resort.
Then began a long descent into flatness that was unfortunately made tough by rough road, sometimes extremely rocky. I got too close to Craig once and our panniers locked up which sent us both crashing and he got the worst of it, reopening a gash on his leg. And the heat, of course, in the mid to upper nineties the whole time. Rather than take a detour at one point we crossed a little stream and proceeded to semi-bathe in it to cool off! But 35+ miles on gravel took its toll on our arms and legs. When we stopped for something to eat in St. Regis, we were happy to say good riddance to the gravel trail and embrace 20 miles of pavement, despite the cars and narrow shoulder. We were even happier to arrive at our destination after 5 PM – Quinn’s Hot Springs! Loving that tomorrow is a zero day!!
July 12
Breakfast was worth the late start – even took the leftover pancakes for a trail snack! It got hot though, 101.5 degrees at one point. Strange that we are getting acclimated to the heat, i.e. lots of sunscreen and (warm) water. Saw two moose (no great picture unfortunately) on the trail and made great time on the gradual ascent. We were constantly grateful for pavement and no cars!
Stopped in Mullan for early dinner then made our own campsite about 5 miles past, near a little creek. Not the best night sleeping with concerns of grizzlies and local wildfires, but Craig did an excellent job hanging the bear bag and obviously we had no issues!
July 11
Today after waffles at our non-fancy, expensive hotel we got on the road around 8 and continued down US 95 but were pleased to have a much wider, cleaner shoulder and less traffic. 37 miles past fields and granaries, and the best part was no flats! I finally quit asking Craig how my tire looked and smiled despite a few good hills.
The start of the Coeur d’Alenes Trail is in Plummer and they have a beautiful memorial and sculpture. We rested there before leaving all the cars behind — smooth sailing on a paved path that runs 73 miles between Plummer and Mullan in Idaho. The trail is awesome and includes a pedestrian/bike-only bridge that spans the south end of Coeur d’Alene Lake. So fun. We stopped after 13 miles or so in Harrison where we promptly bought ice cream in the 90+ degree weather. Harrison is hopping with boaters but we managed a seat at One Shot Charlie’s to have a beer and cheer Italy on to eventual victory over England.
At a sweet B&B tonight and risking a late start tomorrow so that we can have huckleberry pancakes at 8:30… Tomorrow we camp! So no post until Tuesday at least. Stay safe!
Breit Bikes 