July 31
Today was NOT a repeat of yesterday as we had hoped it would be. We packed up camp, drank our bottled Frappuccino’s, ate a little bagel, and headed out of Napoleon to continue east on Highway 46. Unfortunately our tailwind had become a crosswind, which wasn’t too bad for 60 miles, but at one of our stops to put on sunscreen I left behind my best biking gloves, not worth going back for when we realized it 5 miles later. Fortunately we both brought 2 pairs and will hopefully replace them in Fargo. When we finally turned north, however, the crosswind became a brutal headwind and we struggled the rest of the way, including 6 miles on dirt road between crops because we would have had to go much further to stay on paved. We did chance across a car show which was amusing for a few minutes…
We were beat by the time we got to our hotel in Fargo and walked to the nearest food we could find (Applebee’s) for dinner after much needed showers, jacuzzi, and laundry. Bummed to have a Sunday rest day since so much seems to be closed those days but just grateful to not set an alarm and know we will be comfortable!
July 30
Excellent riding day. We were worried about the extra miles (87 total), especially after a late start getting a sit-down breakfast in Napoleon (with 15 truckers who were already there). On the road after 8 AM, and we covered our helmets in response to a slight mist, but the rain never materialized and the temps stayed primarily in the 70’s, only a little smoky. We had purposefully added a few miles today to bring down the 98 it would take us to get to Fargo if we didn’t. Boy are we glad we did! All day we both avoided the T word so we wouldn’t jinx ourselves, but as we sailed into Litchville around 2 PM we sang our Tailwind praises! 16.1 mph is our top average speed. Couldn’t have happened on a better day!
We found the public park that a passing cyclist told us about, which had bathrooms (no showers unfortunately) and we had it to ourselves. Despite constant cooing from doves, it was quiet and comfortable and we were able to charge our electronics (while Craig punished me at Gin Rummy). Beer at a local tavern and then dinner (and ice cream) at the Tasty Treat Drive-In. All in all a good day!
July 29
On the road again! Another meh breakfast, only because Perkins (just a few buildings down) was not open at 6AM as promised (by billboard, on their door, and online). It was noticeably cooler but also smokier than it’s been lately – you could smell it. We meandered out of Bismarck on residential roads and then a paved trail for several miles before settling in on a highway with decent shoulder.
More miles today (71) but somewhat slow going thanks to a headwind and 2,280 ft elevation gain (mostly occasional, gradual hills though). No gravel today though, so we were in good spirits, especially after stopping at a gas station in Hazelton which made great sub sandwiches.
Nearing our destination of Napoleon, we thought we saw a mirage which turned out to be an actual lake we weren’t expecting. The highway (and train) runs right through the middle of McKenna Lake. We were happy to have a cabin reserved and arrived by 2PM. Dinner at the White Maid a half hour away was a little of everything: grilled sandwiches, curly fries, side salad, tall beers, and a hot fudge sundae.
Tomorrow night we camp, so I likely won’t update the website until the next day in Fargo. Two long days on the road (80 miles apiece) that can’t be helped unless we want to camp more. This might be a good time to mention that we are camping as little as possible, but also, we are narrowing down our hotel/motel choices based on important things like a GOOD BREAKFAST. Of the chains we’ve stayed in, the best so far have been AmericInn and Holiday Inn Express. We’ve started earning free nights already… But we really like the little motels as well, which while they usually don’t have breakfast options (except for the occasional splurge B&B), they are incredibly cheap, comfortable, and efficient.
July 28
Zero day! Slept in (7:30 ;), meh breakfast at hotel, did chores (groceries, a few bike fixes, paid bills, made more hotel reservations, fixed a few routes, etc.), then I went for a pedicure and Craig went ahead to Laughing Sun Brewery where I met him after. Great beer and light lunch. More jacuzzi and lounging, then dinner at Eat Thai Cafe – some of the best Thai we’ve ever had; we were sorry not to eat it all!
July 27
Fewer miles (67) and elevation gain (2,031 ft) than yesterday, and the extreme temps we’d been warned about never materialized due to the smoke, but the last half was longer thanks to a headwind. We each had a leftover piece of pizza at the motel, and that mostly lasted us for the first half until we got to New Salem where we had an actual sit-down breakfast. We saw Sue, the “world’s largest Holstein cow” on the hill as we came and left the town. But the headwind thereafter was brutal. It took us longer to do the 67 miles today than the 76 yesterday.
But eventually we crossed the Missouri River again on a nice bike path leading into Bismarck. We wound around town to our hotel – home for two nights! Immediately showered, had a beer, did laundry, sat in the jacuzzi, and then went to a great Mexican dinner at La Carreta. So excited to sleep in tomorrow!
July 26
Happy birthday, Dad! In your honor, we rode 76 miles from Medora to Hebron, ND. 🙂 Earlier start (6:40) and smoke cover kept it from getting too hot until the end (max 97 degrees). Today was all paved roads with little traffic, and moderate elevation gain (only a few rollers). We detoured to see the “Enchanted Highway” which was a large sculpture – nice snack break there. Went through several small towns that seemed to welcome bikers (but sadly no ice cream) and met one lone cross-trekker, another Christopher, going the opposite direction. Originally we planned to either camp or motel stay in Richardton, but more Bates Motel vibes and too hot to camp, so pushed the extra 14 miles to Hebron. Also makes tomorrow into Bismarck a more reasonable day! Which is good because temps are expected to get over 100 everywhere here tomorrow…
July 25
Today was another toughie. 67 miles from Glendive to Medora, but even though we got an earlier start, we still roasted (max 100 degrees) and didn’t get to our hotel until 2 PM. More than 12 miles on dusty, gravel roads, but at least those (and the old highway 10 for the rest) we mostly had to ourselves which was lovely. As far as the scenery, North Dakota doesn’t seem too different from Montana so far!
Medora is a cute, Western-style town, a lot like Winthrop, WA. We had a great early dinner at Boots Bar and Grill (excellent mac and cheese), then bought a few groceries for the road (and our evening sweets) and walked the town a little. Braved their automated zipline which took all of one minute but was fun and now relaxing before the Sounders play again! Tomorrow will be even longer and possibly hotter. Holding out for our zero day in Bismarck day after next…
Breit Bikes 