September 13
Skipped the sack breakfast at the hotel and rode a few miles to The Tea Kettle where they had 20 different pancake choices. I had a banana pancake with peanut butter and syrup, and Craig had a lobster omelet – yum! Then we took roads with good shoulders across the rest of Connecticut (through Mystic – but didn’t stop for pizza) into Rhode Island. The last few miles we were on a rustic trail before we hit the last road to our destination, Mary and Tom, the sister (and husband) of a close friend.
What a treat! First of all their beautiful farmhouse was warm and inviting. We showered, then sat around, snacked, and visited as if we have always known each other for quite awhile. Then they drove us to their studio which was originally a mill, where Craig ogled all the woodworking tools, some antique but fully functional. He may have gotten some good organizational and technique ideas from them 🙂 Check out their amazing work: https://davinandkesler.com.
Back to the house for an excellent dinner; we got to meet their son, Roland, and his girlfriend, Emily, before we finally called it quits. Such gracious and genuine people, doing what they love and loving what they do. I definitely made some life notes from them!
September 12
Slow start this morning. On the road after 8 and had to stop 15 miles later for breakfast (but had great bagel sandwiches). We still managed to get to New Haven before 11 where we met Andy (another former student) at Yale where he’s a senior this year. Another beautiful campus, this one a little older than most! Things I didn’t know about Yale – most students live on campus all 4 years (Hogwarts style) and in their senior year they are inducted into secret societies!
After Yale, we meandered back to our route up the coast, mostly via Highway 1 which has good shoulders and lower speed limits. Since we only went a total of 59 miles today, we stopped 5 miles out a beautiful seaport restaurant and had a light, late lunch.
September 11
It was hard leaving Jolie today, such a short visit, and Ava left for PNW before us! We’ll actually see her the day after we get back.
We started out on the east side of Manhattan just to ride a different way but we cut back through Central Park (and stopped for breakfast) and overlapped with our incoming route before heading back to the coast. More on that…
WTC was completely blocked off today for ceremonies. The police presence everywhere on Manhattan (even 10 mile northeast) was incredible. Cops on every corner, blocking many streets (we’re guessing for the motorcades now that we know so many Presidents were there).
Riding through any city is always an experience. While a good urban trail saves lots of time, there are often still stoplights or cross-streets to slow you down, and pedestrians and other bikers/scooters to slalom around. Once we got off trail and onto the streets, we didn’t stay on the same road for more than a few tenths of a mile the next 30 miles or so. Constant turns zig-zagging across the city, over waterways, under freeways, around industrial areas, etc. Oh, and more hills than we have had for awhile. It took us over 3 hours to go the first 27 miles, which is a new slowness record for us. Eventually we got on the same roadway for more than a few miles and the busy streets gave way to residential streets which were easier to navigate and more fun to see. We also crossed paths twice with Karl, who was on his way to New Haven after spontaneously planning his 90+ mile ride that day. Now we follow each other on Strava! Hopefully he’ll come visit when he does his own cross-country trip some day.
10 miles out we stopped at a great Mexican restaurant and sat outside with our beers and a mole taco. The rest of the ride (71 miles total) to Fairfield/Southport was a snap but it was 5:30 before we arrived – one of the latest finishes yet. We were exhausted despite our previous days off… not one of our finest days.
Luckily we found a great restaurant (Craft 260) close to the hotel and had excellent burgers. Happy to end a long day on a high note.
September 10
After meeting the “kids” at Hole in the Wall for a late breakfast, Craig and I wandered around the WTC and 9/11 memorials. Lots of reporters recording, bands practicing, and throngs of people mulling about (as well as police and police dogs). Saw one fireman with his rosaries. Very surreal to compare to our own visit 19 years ago when “Ground Zero” was still a pit after the wreckage and victims had been removed. Of course, we have seen the memorials several times, but I still find them mesmerizing.
We hung out at Jolie’s apartment (they pay no heed to the fire trucks, honking cars, and people shouting, but I sat and looked out their 4th floor window for quite awhile). Then we took the subway uptown for dinner at an Italian restaurant and walked most of the way back. We stayed at her apartment (she graciously took the couch) to avoid a last night in the hotel and make for easier goodbyes in the morning…
September 9
So nice to sleep in for a change. After an early dinner last night with Jolie outside at Industry Kitchen, we let her run off to an evening class and stopped for a beer outside at another venue that had live music. Then a slice of pizza from Joe’s before watching Ted Lasso and going to sleep!
It rained off and on today – we were not bothered by it since it held off yesterday while we were riding!
Today she had more classes so we hung out at her apartment and got lots of things done – last reservations and course changes, ferry and flight reservations, and an appointment for shipping our bikes back! Then we went grocery shopping and bought most of the supplies for dinner. I made French bread at Jolie’s apartment and we prepped for butternut squash risotto, then when she got back from class we headed to her boyfriend Yanni’s apartment to make the rest of dinner. Her roommate, Ava, made it a little later as well, in time for a fashionably late dinner! Fun evening in the Big Apple. First time I have cooked in a few months and we all enjoyed it!
September 8
Last full day on the Empire State Trail into NYC. Can’t believe we have officially made it across the country (4,037 miles so far), although we are saving the ceremonial tire dip until we are further up the coast. Nice 68 miles today, more downhill than up, but offset by a direct headwind when we were out of tree coverage. Storm and rain expected tonight and tomorrow, so couldn’t have timed that much better.
We stopped briefly to see Kian at Columbia University where he starts grad school tomorrow. Then on to lower Manhattan and FiDi where Jolie met us inbetween classes on her first day back at Pace. We will see her for TWO zero days here. So incredibly grateful.
September 7
B&B’s often mean later breakfast, but today was worth it again. Not on the road until after 9, but sunny weather, and after getting a little lost in Brewster, back onto the Empire State Trail. Paved, long and gradual up and downhills, and lots of shade off and on. We crossed the Hudson River (Walkway Over the Hudson) into Poughkeepsie; the bridge is for pedestrians/bikes only and is widely used and loved for good reason. We took our time crossing and then rolled on our way to Brewster. Nearing the city, we left the main trail to get on another that took us closer to our Hotel – at one point the only way forward was down a set of steep stairs. WTH? Nearly a mile on a busy highway then but we made it. Food delivered to room tonight. Anxious to get some good sleep and get on the road/trail early to Manhattan tomorrow!
Breit Bikes 