Saturday/Sunday (May 18-19): Holly, Craig, and I headed to SeaTac at a reasonable afternoon hour, but not after a frantic meeting at Heather’s when I was worried we were going to be late. We ended up parking both Holly’s and my cars at their house, although we would definitely have had time to meet Holly here first. Checking in and TSA were much quicker than usual. Owell! In the mean time, Kayla jumped on her direct flight from Boston and would beat us there.
After a short layover in London, we landed in the early evening in Lisbon, took an Uber to the hotel which was in the train station where we would me our tour group the next morning, and went to dinner at a small African restaurant with Kayla. We were more than ready for bed and slept early and reasonably well.
Monday (May 20): We met our BackRoads group and one guide downstairs after8 a few quick espressos and pastries across the street. Victoria (from Valencia, Spain) would be on the tour bus with us to our day’s route start, and there were only 6 other guests besides us: Fred from Florida, Edward and Margie from North Carolina, Steve and Suzanne from Las Vegas, and Brian from New Orleans. The previous week our friends Sally and Dave had done the exact same trip (different guides though) and they had 24 guests! So we counted ourselves lucky. And we still piled on a full size bus instead of vans for the short journey to Monchique.
After a light lunch of salads and charcuterie, we mounted our new bikes for the week under the direction of another tour guide, Landon (from Montana, but who has lived all over the world in his short 28 years). Steve and Suzanne were on e-bikes, and the rest of us were on performance bikes (except Kayla who preferred the touring bike, more similar to what she is used to). Super light frames, electronic brakes and shifters, and equipped with trunk bags, these were pretty sweet rides. It took us several attempts to get our four helmets synced, but we managed and were able to hold conversations through the first ride of only 22 miles, with a lot of downhill and a lovely finish along the coast into our first hotel (Bela Vista) where we would spend 2 nights. After showers and drinks by the pool, we had a cocktail hour with the rest of the guests, complete with a Fado serenade and followed by an amazing dinner. Seafood would definitely be the theme for the week!
Tuesday (May 21): Our second morning after a ridiculous breakfast (hot egg entries plus charcuterie, fruit, pastries, etc.) we shuttled to the southern most tip of Portugal (and Western Europe) and rode over 50 miles back to the hotel. We stopped twice, once for coffee, and once for lunch, where Craig and I took a quick plunge in the ocean. Kayla and I hurried a bit ahead at the end (citing bathroom needs) and I almost bit it on a curb close to the hotel. Unfortunately I didn’t realize that Holly actually did fall at the same place behind us (our helmets cut out) and she was immediately surrounded by concerned onlookers (and Craig). As we waited and waited for them, we grew worried, especially after they passed the hotel and had to double back. Holly had pretty bad road rash and was concerned about her wrist, which she immediately started icing. Everyone agreed she should probably have it looked at, so she planned to after dinner that evening. In the mean time, we headed for the “Roman spa” at the hotel, which was included in our stay. Hot sauna, steam room, and jetted pool felt lovely after the day’s ride. Then we changed for dinner at a hotel down the street from the hotel – more delicious seafood. After dinner, Landon offered to take Holly (and Kayla) to an emergency room 20 minutes away. I had slept so poorly the night before that I was grateful Kayla volunteered! Unfortunately after being triaged right away, her injury was not deemed urgent and after two hours they gave up waiting and headed back to the hotel.
Wednesday (May 22): Holly had to pass on this morning’s ride. I had been able to sleep well. After the same filling breakfast, she hopped on the van while we rode 27 miles to lunch on the beach at Praia da Marinha (where Craig was the only one to swim). The rest of the day we rode on the bus to our next hotel, in Evora, which was an old monastery with an elegant enclosed chapel. Victoria had found Holly a wrist guard and some numbing cream, which she immediately tried and found helpful. In the little town, we were entertained by a (Dutch) historian, Lucia, who had a cackling laugh that made you smile as she explained the history of the Moors and the town. We were left to dinner on our own that night and managed to find a place (Café Alentejo) that had a canceled reservation and appetizers ready for us on the table. Great wine and great dinner!
Thursday (May 23): Holly tentatively mounted her bike this day and found she could manage with a light hold on her left. Yay! She made the 44 miles to our last hotel (for two nights) near the historic town of Monsaraz with not too much difficulty. Our lunch stop for the day was at a farm in Fonte Furada where we met up with a similar sized BackRoads group (including one of Sally and Dave’s guides) for snacks and drinks by the pool before splitting for lunch. Holly bought a Portugal jersey (which I’m kicking myself for not buying), and we were entertained by the owner who regaled us with tales about olives, cork, and wine. When we got to our hotel, Sao Laurenco do Borrocal, the grounds were extensive, but the hotel was not large, and it was beautiful. We only had a short while to shower and unwind before we shuttled on the bus into Monsaraz for a tour by the same gentleman from lunch. Then we ate a typical Portuguese dinner at a house restaurant in the town. Lovely. When we returned, I opted out of the jaunt to “Penis in the Woods,” a megalith thoughtfully nicknamed by Margie and adopted by all.
Friday (May 24): The last long ride was one of my favorites, a 53.5 mile loop from our hotel, up
through the hills and little villages, with much less traffic and lots of views of cork and eucalyptus, olive and wine vineyards, and warmer weather. We stopped for lunch at a house with a pool where a few of us swam, and we all enjoyed the resident donkey and dogs. A fair amount of climbs did not daunt us.
We rolled back to the hotel, (well, Kayla and Lander made an extra 10 mile loop to Monsaraz first) and headed for one of the pools, across a large expanse of yard and random groupings of rocks (which held Craig’s attention, of course). We dressed up for dinner on the property this last night and a final surprise which was a visit to the stable where instead of horses we were treated to astronomy instruction and demonstration with a digital telescope. We saw shooting stars and satellites, and learned about stars and planets. Then we teetered (those of us on heels, at least) back across the cobblestones to our rooms.
Saturday (May 25): Our last day riding, sadly. Just 17 miles to a nearby town for a pottery demonstration and then a loop back to the hotel where we packed up and loaded on a bus sans guide for the return to Lisbon. We opted to be dropped in town instead of the airport or the railway station where we began, and then we ubered to our hotel for the next three nights (Kayla only one night, sadly). It was a cute, boutique hotel, with free wine and cheese plates each evening, and very central to downtown Lisbon. Dinner that night was at a restaurant on Pink Street which was good, but the waiter misunderstood our order for sardines and brought us four orders instead of one, so she abandoned us to another waiter. Eyeroll.
Sunday (May 26): Goodbye to Kayla – saw her off to the airport and then walked around before picking up a mini tour from a random driver in an open air vehicle. He showed us several cathedrals and viewpoints, took pictures for us, and shunted us by a woman peddling the local cherry liqueur. Then we had dinner at a place Margo and Bill had recommended (Sea Me) and had our fill of sushi.
Monday (May 27): Took
the bus north to see some outdoor sculptures and lunched at a small café. All the museums were closed on Monday, but it was a great day for strolling. Our favorite spot was the Discoveries Monument and then we wandered through a Georgetown-like setting and had drinks at a rooftop bar. Cheap but great Indian dinner. Holly was ready to rent a flat in Lisbon. Excellent city!
Breit Bikes 